The Bacchus Report: Great southern land
Written by: Helena Baker
After the world wine scene greeted
Carmenere from Chile and Uruguayan Tannat, who could really be surprised
to see Cencibel from La Mancha as the next big thing? So certain
experts are declaring of the new, technologically keyed-up wines
from the region.
Lying to the south of Madrid, La Mancha is in the main an arid
landscape of scorching-hot summers and freezing winters, famous
mostly for the white windmills fought by Don Quixote. Vines were
first planted on the vast plateau of the southern meseta way back
in the thirteenth century, shortly after the expulsion of the Arabs
from Castille. Today more than 420,000 acres (170, 000 hectares)
are devoted to wine production, with the vines trained close to
the ground so that the leaves provide shade from the sun and biting
The mainstay used to be a high-yielding white grape called Airén,
whose pedigree could hardly be described as distinguished, traditionally
supplying wagonloads of unremarkable (to say the least) table wine
for the ever-thirsty and undemanding population of the capital.
What is more remarkable about the unsung Airén is that although
it is the world's most widely planted grape variety, it is scarcely
grown outside its own native region. This goes some way to explaining
La Mancha's sheer size, it being the supplier of half of Spain's
total annual production and the largest wine region in all Europe.
Since 1974, a Denominación de Origen for the region came into force
aimed specifically at improving quality. And now, top producers
such as Martinez Bujanda of Rioja and the Marqués de Grin~on have
recently set up in the region. And not simply because the land is
cheap. Said one: "there is so much of la Mancha, the climate
is good and, if you are prepared to look, you can always find a
place with really great terroir." Nowadays white grapes are
picked much earlier, which certainly cuts alcohol, but gives fresher
acidity while reds are fermented at low temperatures to preserve
the fruitiness. New varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Macabeo,
and Garnacha, have been planted to give dimension to tradtional
favorites, like Cencibel, a local name for Tempranillo, the most
important red, which gives light fruity wines groomed to the modern
palate and a red grape with good blending potential known as Moravia.
its collection for 2002, German design company Zack did not
forget wine lovers, creating this wire basket for six bottles.
Simple, light, made from stainless steel, the Allegra basket
is not only a practical, but also an attractive accessory.
Price CZK 1,760.
Available from: Albertina,
Revoluèní 24, Praha 1, tel.: 02 2231 2567.
Vinotéka Zlatý had, Plaská 4, Praha
5 - Malá Strana.
Tutored tastings every Monday in June at 6 pm.
Entrance CZK 500. More information on tel: 5753 1472.
Galerie vín a vinný sklep, Komerèní
June 11 at 6 pm - tasting of Italian wines with small snacks.
Entrance CZK 200. More information on tel: 0311-602 105.
Recently Spain's business office ICEX hosted
a tasting of a range of Spanish wines. Among those from the La Mancha
1997. La Mancha DO, Bodegas Juan Ramon Lozano, Vilarrobledo
This deep garnet-colored wine from Bodegas Juan Ramon Lozano
is made from Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Tempranillo/Cencibel
and has spent 12 months in oak barriques. Dark-red fruits
with vanilla overtones on the palate. A wonderfully drinkable,
lush and very Spanish red. CZK 300.
Tempranillo Roble 2000 La Mancha DO, Toledo
This is a very youthful cherry-hued red with fruity palate hinting
at balsamic vinegar. It is light on the palate, with firm tannins
and red fruits and lingering soupcons of sultana. The five-month
aging in oak ("roble" means oak in Spanish) is very
apparent. CZK 300.
1997, Ribera del Duero DO, E. Valduero SA, Burgos
Glorious nose of ripe red fruit, spicy and meaty. Rich and
opulent, and matured 12 months in new oak. Awarded silver
medal at "Challenge International du Vin" in Bordeaux
2000. CZK 650 from Petrus, s. r. o.
de Arienzo Rioja Reserva 1996 DOCa, Bodegas Domecq SA, Elciego
Made from Tempranillo 95%, it has been aged for 24 months in
oak casks. Jammy, with plum povidl showing through with vanilla
undertones. Imported by Allied Domecq. CZK 550.