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DINING >
Ostroff - An island unto itself
Written by: John Letzing
Photo by: Dorothea Bylica
Markéta Zelenková can recall from
childhood that Střelecký Island, a patch of dry earth in the Vltava,
was a fairgrounds set amid the ruins of an old fort. Not any more.
That old fort was rebuilt from the bottom up and reborn in 1999
as Ostroff, a culinary vessel where Zelenková is employed as marketing
manager. There is a seductive aura of detachment and buoyancy here,
giving diners the sensation of eating on a remarkably stable barge
cast adrift. Tables are set against a swath of large windows perched
just above the water and the National Theater, which viewed up close
on the east bank never seems quite in proportion, here suddenly
becomes a picturesque landmark in perfect perspective. And the rooftop
terrace, recently refurbished, is shrouded just enough by the island's
flora to offer the thrill of isolation while perched in the center
of town.
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Ostroff has been the subject of glowing reviews around the world,
yet has largely gone unnoticed in local media. Which may be why
when a local journalist approaches him, the restaurant's owner prefers
to remain behind the scenes, and lets his most prized employee to
do the talking. That employee is Manuel Amorini, a doe-eyed head
chef with an infectious smile and a wedge of black hair that evenly
divides the chin beneath it. That his appearance resembles more
an artist at his own gallery show than a chef makes sense when one
becomes familiar with Amorini's delightfully unorthodox approach.
A pleasing mix of intellectual curiosity and bold experimentation
keeps his kitchen turning out anomalies that somehow work. His current
challenge to the white-wine-for-seafood rule is a tuna filet with
a red marsala wine from Sicily - a mix Amorini proudly deems "a
little bit strange, but an excellent combination." Delving
into the dusty shelves of historical archives, Amorini has produced
another favorite on the Ostroff menu - a casoncelli (similar to
ravioli) made from a recipe 300 years old. "Of course I make
it a bit lighter now," the chef says with a laugh, "because
you know, times change."
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Manuel Amorini
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Zelenková is quick to highlight the chief difference between Ostroff's
cuisine and the sometimes immobilizing, painfully heavy local fare
- all of Amorini's ingredients are brought in fresh from Italy,
including parma ham, oils, tomatoes, and a thrice-weekly delivery
of seafood. And the necessity to coordinate his cuisine with a proper
wine is never overlooked - Amorini describes the relationship between
the two as "like the way women are important for men, white
or red, the food cannot live without the wine." The wine list
is entirely made up of Italian vintages, ranging from a bottle of
Chardonnay del Veneto I.G.T. for CZK 600, to the likes of a bottle
of Tuscan Solaia Antinori for CZK 9,950.
According to Zelenková, one of the primary challenges for Ostroff
has been a tendency here to associate Italian cuisine with the legion
of cheaper pizzerias that dot the Prague landscape. The no-frills,
Trattoria-style fare those places churn out is a far cry from Amorini's
artistry, yet Ostroff has to get people in the door before they
can find out for themselves. "If you say 'Italian restaurant',
you have to add, 'not just a pizza place'," Zelenková says,
"but once people come in here and sit down, it's not so difficult
to make them see the difference."
Ostroff, Střelecký
ostrov 336, Praha 1, tel: 2492 0227.
Open: Mon-Fri 12-14, 19-23:30, Sat 19-23:30,
Sun 11-15, 19-23:30
VISA, Mastercard, American Express
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TABLE SCRAPS
Strawbery and grill feast:
If you love strawberries turn your feet towards La Rotonde restaurant
in hotel Radisson SAS Alcron. There the chef will surprise you
with number of creative variations of meals made with this sensual
fruits. Meat eaters also have a good reason to visit: the summer
terrace is open awaiting you with grilled specialities.
Address: Štěpánská 40,
Praha 1, tel: 2282 0410
Exotic tastes:
Those who enjoy exotic flavors can follow their nose to hotel
Hilton. Until the middle of June diners can enjoy the hotel's
Festival of Thai Cuisine.
Address: Pobřežní 1,
Praha 8, tel: 2484 1111
We want your Table Scraps!
Write with any news, ideas and suggestions to features@prague-tribune.cz
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FARTHER AFIELD: Villa Golfista
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Foto Archiv
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It looks like a private villa, and feels a bit like home: decorated
with angels and items related to golf - including a real indoor
golfing simulator. The upper floor features a very nice attic appartment,
which is perfect for a dining party of four. But the most outstanding
thing in this cozy venue is the quality of service. The managers
and staff are extremely kind, courteous and helpful. Although it's
located on the outskirts of Mariánské Lázně, it's very easy to reach.
Villa Golfista
Americká 782/1C, Mariánské Lázně
tel: 0165-623071 (621 357)
www.villa-golfista.cz
all credit cards
How to get there:
When approaching Mariánské Lázně from Prague, there is an Aral gas
station at the edge of the city. Turn right just before the station
and take the second street right again. The villa is 300 m from
there.
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LIMELIGHT - you
need to relax!
Roses beneath a smooth, transparent sheet of water
greet your entry. This stylish café-gallery on a serene
square in Prague's Old Town offers something to lift
the spirit, relax the soul, and gently fill the stomach.
"It allows you let stress go, maybe eat vegetarian,"
says owner Marie Borenstein, who created Le Patio.
Her taste and deft hand are equally apparent here.
Teak tables and bamboo trees give the café a warm,
tropical feel, while cool stone shades add a sense
of calm and balance. "We offer a cultured menu:
coffee, with salad, or soup," says Borenstein.
"It's a popular concept in France and Belgium
but a new idea here." You can order in the gallery,
or even take your wine downstairs, sit by the fireplace,
and enjoy feeling as cozy as if you were home.
No stress café & gallery
Dušní 10, Praha 1, tel: 02-2231 7007
Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00
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MY PLACE
Eva Janoušková, fashion designer, E.daniely
Where do you like to go to have a drink and a bite of light
meal in hot summer?
"During the summer time I enjoy sitting and eating in the
garden of restaurant Století. It has unusual cuisine, a nice salad
bar and a good selection of wines. Throughout the year I like Universal
- it's not far from my house and I love their salads. In cre`perie
U slepiček in Průhonice they make wonderful pancakes. If time is
not an issue, we like to visit Spálený mlýn restaurant near Prague.
It is located in a beautiful natural setting, and offers an unbelievable
and unique choice of meals from around the world. Just reading their
menu is a literary experience as well."
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