| DINING >
Sovovy mlýny: Renaissance of Czech cuisine
Written by: Jasmina Žarković
Photo: Archiv
A new restaurant has opened on the
banks of the Vltava in the Kampa Museum complex. No ordinary restaurant,
Sovovy mlýny is a place where fine visual art is complemented with
fine culinary art.
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When at the end of the 15th century, Václav Sova of Liběves renovated
the Sovovy mlýny building that had been ruined during the Hussite
Wars, he certainly had no idea of the twists and turns its future
would take. After that reconstruction, the building was burned
down several times, then it went through many architectural changes,
and last year it was hit by a thousand-year flood. One year after
the flood, in September of this year, Sovovy mlýny, a café and
restaurant, was newly opened in the so-called Šulc Wing of the
Kampa Museum by the well-known Prague restaurateur Roman Řezníček.
The simple, timeless interior features clean lines and combinations
of metal, wood, and neutral-colored fabrics, which ties the whole
space to the overall structural concept of the Kampa Museum area.
With its unobtrusive colors, the site is the perfect platform for
planned exhibitions of large-format paintings on loan from the
collection of Jan and Meda Mládek, or exhibitions of works by individual
photographers, or graphics by contemporary artists. The terrace,
with its newly discovered view of the Vltava and a symbol of the
flood - a huge armchair by Magdalena Jetelová - thus conform to
the image and tradition of Sovovy mlýny.
Owner Roman Řezníček is a successful Prague restaurateur whose
establishments include Pálffy palác, Terasa u Zlaté studně (Terrace
by the Golden Well), and the music club Mecca. When establishing
Sovovy mlýny he made use of his international experience in gastronomy
to the benefit of a "renaissance of traditional Czech cuisine," as
he says. The goal was to create a homey place for art lovers visiting
the nearby Kampa Museum to sit down in, but also to offer specialties
of traditional Czech cuisine to an international clientele - tourists
and diplomats from embassies and offices in the vicinity. "I
wanted to create a good Czech restaurant, but not to serve classic
filet mignon with cream sauce. We want to show our guests that
even traditional Czech appetizers can stand up to international
competition," Řezníček explains. "We cook with Czech
ingredients, such as goose, rabbit, and walleye, and find entirely
new ways to use them. The result is traditional dishes conceived
in a modern, healthy way, that are suitably filling, and will satisfy
the palate of even the most demanding guests," he adds. The
menu is prepared by a team of cooks led by chef Pavel Sapík, a
member of the Czech national cooking team.
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Treats like walleye with Csaba salami sauce and cabbage, saddle
of rabbit wrapped in bacon with mustard-seed sauce, pork roll
on shallots with cabbage and potato purée with horseradish, and
roast breast of duck on mushroom risotto with apple garnish are
just a few of the many specialties of Sovovy mlýny. Emphasis
is placed on the use of high-quality ingredients, mainly lean
meats, and on reduced fats and oils. Therefore the appetizers
are prepared according to the French custom, with clarified butter,
which makes it possible to preserve and elevate the natural flavors
and aromas of the food. Bread is baked fresh on the premises
twice a day. For chef Sapík the visual aspect and presentation
also has key importance, so Sapík's own recipes are used for
the sauces. "A good cook can be recognized by his sauces
and side dishes," he affirms.
Diners can also choose from many creatively garnished desserts,
such as the chocolate bomb with sour cherries or the curd dumplings
with raspberries, which top off the tasty, "enhanced" Czech
cuisine perfectly. Likewise, the wine list reflects the emphasis
on local produce, featuring mainly varietals from the Moravian
wine-producing regions of Valtice and Mikulov. Of course, the
cellar also houses the most desirable French and Italian vintages.
For visitors who aren't that hungry, the café will welcome you
at any time of the day. You can also delight in Prague's autumnal
face from the restaurant's rafting-yard.
Sovovy mlýny,
U Sovových mlýnů 4, Praha 1 - Kampa
open: kavárna 10-23, restaurace 11-23
Tel.: 257 535 900, 737 317 776
Visa,
EC/MC, Amex
| LIMELIGHT
- Caribbean catering
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| Photo:
Archiv |
WHEN THE TAINO indians traveled from South America
to the Caribbean islands, they brought their native
cuisine, which combines the tang of spices like
cumin, curry, and cilantro with the succulence
of exotic fruits.
Now Karibe introduces those unique flavors to Prague
diners. Offering catering for 40 or at-home dinners
for two, Karibe's menu reflects centuries of cultural
blending, with entrees ranging from Jamaican Ginger
Chicken to Cuban black beans and rice. Other dishes,
like couscous Trinidad-style or Ghanian-inspired
satay, are just a phone call away.
Karibe, Tel: 605 424 691, email: info@karibe.biz,
9-19 daily. |
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FARTHER AFIELD: Mlýn
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Photo by: Jan Vágner
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If you have a hankering for Croatian cuisine, visit Mlýn, located
on a peaceful natural setting on the brook Šárka, where a mill was
built in the 17th century. The interior of this restaurant illustrates
the beauty in simplicity - wood and warm colors combine to create
the pleasant, homey atmosphere of the south. The same effect is created
by specialties from all parts of Croatia - kulen from bountiful Slavonia,
or seafood characteristic of rocky Dalmatia, which the owner imports
directly. The Croatian chefs will happily prepare Adriatic octopus "under
peka" with potatoes, devil-fish salad, black risotto with cuttle
fish, or lobster with noodles in white wine sauce. Fresh bread is
baked daily on the premises, and the pleasant staff will be happy
to help you select the right Croatian wine.
Mlýn
Horoměřická 3A, Praha 6 - Dejvice, tel.: 220 610 760
mlyn@mlyn1999.cz, www.mlyn1999.cz
Open daily 11:30-24:00
How to get there:
From metro station Dejvická take buses no. 161, 254, 316 to Jenerálka
stop.
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| Photo by:
Hana Hamplová |
MY PLACE Ruud
Jona
CEO, Philips Central Europe
"From one businessman to another, I suggest two restaurants
that are both good value for money. For lunch, Kogo - as a starter
or main course stick to pasta. The waiters know their food and
service is excellent - you can be in and out in less than one hour.
Dinner is another matter. I suggest Square, at Malostranské naměstí
(an ideal location for taking foreign visitors for a stroll across
Charles Bridge after dinner). Recommended light dinner menu is
consommé soup with Steak tagliata Rossini, finished off with fresh
fruit tiramisu. With two draft Pilsner Urquell, it will set you
back about CZK 750, which is a steal. Bring your own cigars, though."
Kogo, Havelská 27, Praha 1, tel.: 224 214 543; Slovanský dům, Na
Příkopě 22, Praha 1, tel.: 221 451 259
Square - Malostranská kavárna, Malostranské nám. 5, Praha 1, tel.:
257 532 109-110 |
