| DINING >
Rio's Vyšehrad: A historical panorama
Written by: Anita Lišková
Photo: Dorothea Bylica
In the 10th century, Czech royalty
headquartered itself at Vyšehrad. Today, in the middle of this
fortified settlement, you'll find a restaurant which reflects the
historical atmosphere, as well as enlivening it with Franco-Italian
cuisine.
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Vyšehrad is one of the most commemorated Czech sites, and it has
maintained its magical and mysterious atmosphere to this century.
When you've had enough of the ubiquitous histories of Vyšehrad
and the lovely, panoramic view of Prague, head for Rio's Vyšehrad.
This café-restaurant was opened in November of 1992 by Raimond
Rio Spunda (known to his friends as Rio) in the former rectory
beside the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. Shortly before, the
great flood had erased his restaurant of the time, Rio's Beach
Club, at the Štvanice tennis facility. (Plans call for reopening
in the fall.)
The interior of the restaurant includes two stylistically distinctive
areas that are the owner's work. "Clients have to make an
effort to get here, so everything must meet their desire for high
quality. The ground floor is for our more demanding clients, while
the café upstairs is more casual," the owner comments. The
ground-floor dining area conforms with the refined, historical
style of the Vyšehrad tradition, while the inviting café upstairs,
with its hues and trimmings of sand and ocean, recalls the Mediterranean
area. Between May and September, guests can while away the time
in the spacious summer garden, with its unbelievable capacity of
two hundred. This vast terrace is surrounded by a historical wall
dating to the eleventh century, and in the summer is host to grilled
specialties. The venue's charming atmosphere is enhanced by the
cathedral chimes, the second largest set in Prague after the Loreta.
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While Italian and French dishes dominate the menu, Czech specialties
are also present. Several times a year, the team of chefs is reinforced
by colleagues from France and Italy, who come to share new recipes
and experience. "We strive for an individual approach. When
a guest wants something that's not on the menu, we accomodate him," Spunda
explains. In the restaurant's intimate ground-floor ambience, visitors
will find appetizers that include nine variations of carpaccio,
including two vegetarian types and eight styles of tartare, from
the traditional to French with cognac or Mexican with salsa. For
something lighter, you can order from the generous selection of
fresh salads.
The daily offer of fresh fish, imported from France and Scandinavia,
is a matter of course. "We serve salmon and bluehead, for
example. Both of these fish, once boned and marinated, take on
a pleasant aroma and lovely color when smoked," Spunda says,
stressing the merits of the restaurant's smokehouse, which operates
year-round. Grilled-meat dishes include lamb chops with beans and
onions and tasty beef steaks named after Bahía Beach in Brazil. "We
also prepare Creole dishes, from the Seychelles or Mauritius. We
try to dress up the basic menu with varied offers, in order to
please even the most demanding diners," explains the owner.
If you can't resist having dessert, treat yourself to cre`me mascarpone,
tiramisu made according to a house recipe, or honey-dew melon with
Curacao.
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The wine list, which is rotated by season is crowned by a red 1982
Bordeaux, Chateau Lafite Rothschild Premier Cru Pauillac. Also
available are more affordable wines, such as the 1999 Italian red
Mille e una notte, Donna Fugata, or a 1996 French St. Emilion,
Cha^teau Cheval blanc. But the wine list isn't limited to just
France and Italy - you can drink to your friends' health with glass
from the Czech Republic, Chile or South Africa.
The unusual experience of a visit to Vyšehrad after dusk is also
an attractive option. The lighting on the cathedral and walls is
among Prague's most impressive displays. Despite the growing number
of visitors, the restaurateur claims that Vyšehrad is still an
under-rated location. "This place has the potential to become
the Czech Montmartre," Spunda claims.
Rio's Vyšehrad
Štulcova 2/102, Praha 2
tel.: 224
922 156
open daily 10-24
All cards accepted
| LIMELIGHT
- A bar for all seasons
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| Photo:
Dorothea Bylica |
This combination wine bar, shop, and tasting cellar
is just the ticket for passers-by in Prague 1 who
feel like a little classy indulgence. In addition
to an impressive selection of choice labels from
South Africa to Australia, this elegantly-appointed
venue boasts a well-stocked humidor, a daily selection
of French and Swiss cheeses, fondue, paté and other
specialty snacks. By-the-glass prices are suited
to the connoisseur and the modest tippler alike,
and the renovated cellar can also be reserved for
group tastings, with your own sommelier presiding.
Monarch Vinný Sklep,
Na Perštýně 15, Praha 1,
tel.: 224 239 603, www.monarchvinnysklep.cz |
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FARTHER AFIELD: Domov
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Photo by: archiv
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Located in a typical cottage in the foothills, in which there has
been a pub since the 19th century, the Domov interior is luxurious
- fireplace, leather chairs, and large, solid tables, placed unusually
far apart, thus evoking a sense of privacy. Czech-style specialties
include grilled lamb chops on string beans with a mustard-tarragon
sauce and mashed potatoes. Meat is grilled in several ways, and for
private parties whole animals can be prepared. The fish on the menu
is served fresh from a large tank in the basement, and guests can
even catch their own. The wine list and the menu are both well balanced,
despite the advertised Czech cuisine, and include such entrées as
ostrich medallions. According to the owner, diners can order almost
anything in advance, including items not on the menu - perhaps oysters.
For a table near the fireplace or a weekend dinner, reservations
are a must.
Domov
Ještědská 149, Liberec, tel.: 482 771 251
Mon-Thu 11am to 11pm, Fri-Sat 11am to 1am, Sun 11am to 10pm
Visa, MC, EC, www.hospoda-domov.cz, domovlib@volny.cz
How to get there: From Liberec take the road leading to Ještěd.
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| Photo by:
P.Poliak |
MY PLACE Eva
Štěpánková,
owner of Ryor, a cosmetics firm
"One of my favorite restaurants is Na Farkáně. Unusually
fine cuisine and a resourceful menu with a picture of each dish
make this eatery especially fascinating. The Easter banquet menu
borders between fantasy and typical regional dishes. Also tempting
are the autumnal wild game feasts, with their unmistakable ambience,
even though they last but a few days. Our foreign partners also
appreciate the high quality of the food served there. The desserts
are also highly original. Dishes at Na Farkáně that I and my colleagues
like very much include roast duck with various types of cabbage
and different kinds of dumplings. Pleasant service is a tradition
at this restaurant."
Na Farkáně - Na Farkáně III/32, Praha 5, tel. 257 220 253, open
daily 11:30-24 |
