The aristocrat of distillates
Written by: Petr Tůma
Every cognac is brandy, but not every
brandy is cognac, as set forth in a law from 1924 that all alcohol
producers in the world must follow, like it or not.
This seemingly complicated sentence indicates that true cognacs are
made only from selected kinds of white grapes, mainly Ugni Blanc,
which is grown exclusively in the area around the town of Cognac
in the Charente region. The wine there is famous for only one thing
- it's nearly undrinkable. While the grapes are nice and sweet, after
the juice is pressed from them and left to ferment, the wine is dry
and strangely sour and bitter, and is usually used for the production
of the celebrated local aperitif Pineau des Charentes. That's one
of the reasons it's distilled twice and aged for at least three years
in barrels made of Limousine oak, where with time the harsh distillate
characteristics take on a nearly delicate flavor. The distillate
is then designated as eau de vie, or "water of life", and
is subsequently mixed into final refined distillate.
The mysterious abbreviations VS and VSOP indicate how long the distillate
has spent in cellars. VS means Very Special and reveals that the
cognac is made of a blend whose youngest part is at least two years
old. Very Superior Old Pale cognacs are distillates that are at least
four years old, which results in their balance. Prestigious XO, or
Extra Old, cognacs are blends of up to 100 eaux de vie, some of which
are dozens of years old. This distillate has a penetrating aroma
of grapes, the power of the sun, and the tannic, bitter flavor of
oak, combining to create a full, rich, complex taste. Additionally,
the high glycerine content causes the cognac to break into little
droplets around the edges when swirled in a glass. In 1865, Maurice
Hennessy introduced a far clearer designation of cognacs according
to a series of stars - one-star cognacs are aged two years, two-star
for four years, and three-star for six years and more.
Although Hennessy wasn't the first producer ever, his name has become
synonymous with cognac in many nations around the world, from Bushmen
to Eskimos. In 1794 Hennessy's products reached New York, in 1860
China, and soon Japan. Today the company is the largest producer,
exporting about 30 million bottles a year! Although it is now owned
by the luxury concern LVMH, descendants of the company's founder
work there, Mr. Maurice Hennessy, for example.
In fact, family tradition plays a major role in cognac's production.
This can be seen from the Martell brand, which was established by
Jean Martell, who has been followed by eight generations of family
members, with the secrets for blending the very successful Cordon
Bleu being passed on. Another example is Jean-Paul Camus, who represents
cognacs of the same name. Hennessy's promotional motto could apply
to all of them today: "Drink through the entire world with us!"
The author is the deputy
editor-in-chief of Esquire magazine.
Photo: Věroslav Sixt
- Sleek shots:Serve your guests their vodka in glasses that
do the famous crystal-clear alcohol justice
- this four-piece "VAR" set
by LSA. Price: CZK 1,190
Available at: Blomus, Karlínské nám. 9,
In 1934, Rudolf Slavík, the famed Czech
bartender, won a competition for the best cocktail suitable
for transoceanic liners with his "Leviathan" recipe:
one-half part cognac, one-quarter part fresh orange juice,
one-quarter part Italian red vermouth, and two splashes of
the orange liqueur Grand Marnier. However, the Horse Neck
cocktail, based on cognac mixed with ginger ale with a few
drops of angostura bitters, is far more famous.
HENNESSY FINE DE COGNAC - 0,70 l, 40 %
A cognac of the third millennium, intended for everyone
who likes to experiment. With this product Hennessy breaks
down the well-established idea that cognac is a drink
for only staid gentlemen.
Price: cca 960 Kč
||HENNESSY X.O - 0,70 l, 40
Looking at the bottle, you may wonder what its strong, masculine
contents will do to you. Its somewhat harsh flavor, with a
tannic tinge of wood and exotic aromatic spices in the finish,
is a symbol of luxury.
Price: cca 3600 Kč
OTARD - 0,70 l, 40 %, V.S.O.P.
This producer's cognacs (in lovely bottles) are aged within
the thick walls of the Chateau de Cognac castle, where
they take on their rich aroma of fruits and vanilla with
a slightly sharp edge and typical, spicy flavor.
Price: 1030 Kč
||RÉMY MARTIN - 0,70 l, 40
This seven-year-old cognac, named after the firm's founder,
is recognizable by its intoxicating aroma, slightly fruity
flavor, and alcoholic finish. Fans of gastronomic experiences
should try it in combination with Roquefort cheese.
Price: cca 990 Kč
MARTELL CORDON BLEU - 0,70 l, 40 %
A cognac whose average age is 25 years. It has a provocative,
fine, fruity flavor with a touch of spice and a long,
well-balanced finish. This cognac was served at the signing
of the treaty that ended WWI.
Price: cca 2900 Kč
Available at: Wines from Galicia are imported by the Petrus firm,
Petrov 1, 252 81 Petrov u Prahy, tel.: 241 951 081, www.petrov-vino.cz