The Bacchus Report: More than Port in Portugal

Written by: Libor Ševčík

Original varietals, unusual aromas, surprising flavors – these mark the wines of Portugal, which are now available in this country.

There’s no doubt that port equals Portugal. But until recently that was all anyone besides experts knew about wine production in that country. There is evidence that fortified grape wines have been produced there since 600 BC, when the Phoenicians introduced it. A mass influx of tourists, EU accession, and substantially enhanced wine production in the last decades of the 20th century are the three main reasons that Portuguese wines have begun to succeed on foreign markets.
They are an acquired taste, because they are very different from what the ordinary consumer is used to. This is not due to the different climate, the different soil composition, or different technological processing. Their special nature lies in the originality of the grape varietals used in making Portuguese wines. Most of them don’t grow anywhere else. However, their names already promise pleasant surprises. Dona Branca, Maria Gomez, Manteúdo, Fonte Cal, Rabo da Ovelha, Roupeiro, Perrum, Rabigato, Samarrinho, Viosinho, and Gouveio are but a few of the white varietals. The best known of the blue varietals are Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Barroca, from which port is made. Naturally there are also high quality red wines, such as those made from the Baga, Bastardo, Tinta Carvalha, Tricadeira Preta, Cormifesto, Negera Mole, and many others.
Portugal is divided into 55 wine producing areas. The highest quality wines bear origin markings – DOC. Nineteen areas have been awarded this designation, and Porto and Madeira are of course the best known of these. The designation can also be used on the finest wines from the following areas, which are also known in this country: Douro, Dao, Setúbal, Bairrada, Alentejo, and Vinho Verde, from the province of Minho. Discovering Portugal through its wines is filled with surprises and interesting flavor experiences.
The author is the editor of Hospodářské noviny’s IN magazine.

Upcoming tastings

Vinařské Litoměřice – Dům kultury, Na Valech 2028, Litoměřice
April 25-26 there will be an exhibition of wines for sale and a presentation of vinotheques from around Bohemia and Moravia. To add some spark, there will also be wines from Argentina and France as well as a seminar on “Wine and health”. The grand opening will take place on April 24 at 4 pm.

WINE GUIDE

Gatao Verde A typical “green” wine (Vinho Verde) from northern Portugal, a varietal that is found nowhere else. Clear, greenish-hued, light and fresh with subtle citrus tones for the nose and palate. Lightly carbonated. Price: 139,90 Kč

Quinta da Avaleda 2000 Another example of a refreshing “green” wine. An ideal libation for late, sunny afternoons on a terrace, or as an accompaniment to fish, seafood, pasta, and vegetable salads. Price: 200 Kč

Monte Velho Branco 2001 A pleasant blend of three typical Portugal varietals – Rabo da Ovelha, Roupeiro, and Perrum. Full, harmonious flavor with tropical fruit notes; good with fish and grilled chicken. Price: 199 Kč

Monte Velho Tinto 2001 From the same region as the preceding white wine, Alentejo, and again a blend of typical Portuguese varietals – Trincadeira, Piriquita, and Moreto. It is harmonious, spicy, and full on the palate, and it has a lovely ruby color. It goes well with baked and grilled meats. Price: 199 Kč

These wines are imported by Banimpex, and are sold in Delvita stores.